Now when I say ‘Focaccia’ you think you know what I mean,
right? That olive oil infused, salt-studded flat bread from the Ligurian
Coast. Chances are you’re eating it right now, maybe sandwiching
some creamy mozzarella and slices of ripe tomato or as part of a tasty
Aperitivo with a glass of Prosecco? I don’t want to delude you,
but what you (may) have in your hand is a mere distant relative of the
real thing, a bready impostor, a fake. Quite rightly you’re probably
thinking, “Who do I think I am? questioning the credibility of
your lunch, and anyway, Who cares as long as it tastes good?”
However as locally produced food and regional recipes that have shaped
the culture and identity of an area, are slowly being lost into the
inescapable and frenzied world of sterilized, portioned, plastic wrapped
ready meals, it pays to be niggley about the quality, origin and authenticity
of what we consume. And going to Genoa, after an early morning visit
to the fish market, I was handed breakfast to eat while we strolled
through the Caruggi – the alley ways- of the historical centre.
What I saw looked familiar, but as I took it in my hands and felt the
warmth between my fingers, the pungent aroma of olive oil as I bit through
the crispy top into the soft centre, happening occasionally on damp,
salty, puddles where the olive oil had come to rest during cooking;
I knew immediately I wasn’t eating ‘Focaccia’, or
not as I’d ever known it. This was what the Genovesi call Fugassa:
And while the inhabitants of this bustling and eclectic city got ready
to start the day, the first light hitting the rooftops of the houses
perched precariously on the mountainside, I realised there was much
more to the story of Focaccia than it’s modest beginnings of flour,
oil, yeast, salt and water.
Just thinking of Focaccia as a tasty bread does nothing to convey its
true significance in the hearts of the Genovesi. It has become entwined
in the culture, tradition and lifestyle of the people of this Northern
Italian region. Something carved into everyone’s childhood memories,
a ritualistic part of everyone’s daily routine. This is due to
the fact that like many of the Italian peasant foods now gracing the
tables of some of the finest restaurants worldwide, Focaccia has always
been within the reaches of everyone, present on the tables of even the
poorest families.
Generations and generations have been making the trip to the Panificio
every morning to bring home fat slices of Focaccia appena sfornato.
In the 1500’s it was given out in the church during wedding ceremonies,
and is traditionally considered fisherman’s fare, to be twinned
with a glass of white wine whilst discussing the previous night’s
catch as the boats come back to the harbour.
Now, in Liguria the term ‘Focaccia’ can mean different things
to different people based on which part of the coastal region they come
from, and Focaccia has many famous forms each an entirely different
creation in itself, so it can get confusing. For example, the famous
Focaccia col Formaggio di Recco is a thin crispy affair of oozing cheese
sandwiched between paper thin sheets of dough cooked on traditional
round copper trays in the pizza oven. And this difference appears just
a few miles down the coast. However today is dedicated to the Focaccia
native to the city of Genoa, the leavened savoury snack which steals
the hearts of locals and visitors alike. Its importance is shown by
the recent certification set up by the Consorzio dei Panificatori di
Genova e Provincia allowing only establishments meeting the precise
characteristics - on ingredients used, rising time, cooking time and
temperature etc. - to use the title of “Focaccia Genovese”
when naming their product. This is good news for you and me as we can
be sure that what we are unwrapping from it’s greaseproof paper-
as fingers that can’t wait for coffee to be poured rip off corners,
savouring the salty warm slivers in silence before coming back for more-
is made with Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and that the dough will have been
made with only the merest amount of yeast needed and risen for the correct
amount of time to create a well flavoured light dough which is then
cooked to perfection.
So where to go to get this little taste of heaven, or perhaps more importantly,
when to go?
Every Genovese worth their (sea) salt will tell you that good Focaccia
needs to be eaten hot and straight from the oven. Even half an hour
after it will have become something else altogether, good in it’s
own right, but no longer worthy of the name Focaccia. So those in the
know go to the Panificio first thing and as all Fornai start work in
the small hours, in some parts of the city there is no such thing as
too early. In fact, late night drinkers, night workers, and fishermen
often convene to share the first breakfast of the day before the sun
comes up. As mentioning the subject of the best Focaccia in town can
cause lengthy discussion and disagreement amongst the locals as everyone
has their favourite haunt, it’s also better just to taste your
way round the city sightseeing as you go. This is helped by the fact
that like bread, Focaccia is sold by weight and bakeries will be happy
to cut slices as thin or thick as you want to help keep you light on
your feet as you stroll the winding alleys discovering the other treasures
the city has to offer.
The slightly less greedy option is found at the bar. Alongside the Cornetti
usually found in a self serve glass cabinet at the end of the bar are
neat rectangles of Focaccia for a quick breakfast on the run. Here however
I must urge you to follow local tradition and order a Cappuccino. Now
you may know where this is going and are already thinking olive oily,
salty bread and milky coffee all in one mouthful isn’t for you,
but I promise if you dip a strip of Focaccia into the creamy foam for
a little longer than an instant and pop it into your mouth just once,
you’ll never want to eat breakfast cereal again. As they say,
“When in Rome….”
Harriet
Metcalf
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